They never saw it. This June 27th, it is the 25th ºIn the Lofoten Islands C. The sun floods the fjords. Trekkers swim in 12 mountain lakes ºC and go out to dry on grass or rocks. Two days later, the fog returned and we had to struggle along the edge of the ridge against the wind that could cut the oxen’s horns. Is everything normal again? It doesn’t last: the next day, an unusual sun shines again. “This is unprecedented.” Roer Justt, owner of a youth hostel in Stamsund, in the south of the island of Vestvagoya, tells his patrons (secretly delighted by this unexpected warmth).
The slopes are steep and the cliffs are often steep. Ridges, sometimes vertical, draw a line from one apex to the other.
An octogenarian with a wry sense of humour, Roar Justt, a wise old man who has lived here for 47 years, is one of the backpackers who come to settle there before climbing the island’s slopes. First, his inn is A Rorbus, a traditional fishing fisherman’s hut. It has been converted into a gîte like many similar establishments. Its pontoon opening into the Norwegian Sea offers a postcard setting: calm dark blue water, the daily view of the Hurtigruden line’s “Coastal Express” passing in the distance, a small round lighthouse with a red cap and the harbor entrance in the background.
Lofoten is a string of islands north of Norway, 200 kilometers above the Arctic Circle. Twenty-five thousand people live in a distance of 1,227 km2. Very close to each other, they are now sometimes connected by very long tunnels (more than 3 km each) or bridges, some of which, with narrow and curved lines, are architectural marvels. One of the strongest currents in the world revolves around the eddy. But the Gulf Stream, which hugs its shores, makes temperatures relatively pleasant: in summer, they are about 15 ºC, and the city of Rost sometimes lives above 0 in winter ºvs
Cloudberry and carnivorous plants
Winter, summer… the chosen period indicates a different approach required for accommodation. Winter means perpetual night, snow, skiing and the Northern Lights. Summer is the day that never stops, the famous midnight sun, hiking and even swimming. The peaks are 1,000 meters high and sometimes haloed by eternal snow, the long white sand beaches are where some go surfing and host many campsites: Lofoten is like the Alps nestled in the Caribbean.
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